Do Moisturizers Cause Cancer?
Commonly used moisturizers have been linked to cancer in rodents; however, the implications for human use are still unclear.
Researchers at Rutgers University, New Jersey, applied four widely used moisturizers to mice every day for several months and then exposed the animals to UVB radiation.
In a study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, they found the number of non-melanoma tumors was significantly higher in the mice treated with cream than the control group.
Significant differences were also observed between the moisturizers.
Dermabase by Paddock Laboratories, Dermovan by Healthpoint, Eucerin Original Moisturizing Cream by Beiersdorf and Vanicream by Pharmaceutical Specialties were all put under the microscope.
Tumor rates increased 95 percent with Dermovan and only 24 percent with Eucerin leading the scientists to conclude that certain ingredients were responsible for the higher risk levels.
They prepared a custom blend without several suspect ingredients such as sodium lauryl sulfate and found that cancer rates were significantly lower.
Leading study author Allan Conney said further studies were needed to determine whether the conclusions could be extended to apply to humans exposed to sunlight.
Rodent skin is far more sensitive than human skin and for the purposes of the experiment strong UVB light rather than natural sunlight was used to test the effect of moisturizer use.
Source: CosmeticDesignEurpoe, August 18, 2008.
Beiersdorf Defends Moisturizer
In response to the new study linking moisturizers to cancer in rodents, Beiersdorf is fighting academic research on mice that linked its Eucerin moisturizer to skin cancer.
The Rutledge study stated that tumor rates were 24 per cent higher in the mice treated with Beiersdorf’s Eucerin Original Moisturizing Cream.
Beiersdorf has now responded to the research findings with a host of criticisms. The company said the research was not only used a different speconducted on animals, but it also selected only a special line of hairless mice that are highly susceptible to developing tumors when exposed to UVB.
Beiersdorf’s criticisms went further concluding that the study was ‘clinically not relevant’. The company said the paper does not comply with scientifically accepted or validated methods outlined in OECD guidelines. Beiersdorf also claimed the study lacked dose-response relationships, positive controls, an appropriate placebo group and historical data on the test method.
Source: CosmeticDesignEurpoe, August 19, 2008.
Mergers & Acquisitions
Germany-based active ingredients firm Symrise says it has acquired a 20 per cent stake in bioactive peptides specialist Theraputic Peptides (TPI).
The move secures the distribution rights for this type of highly advanced cosmetic active ingredient, as well as various derivative ingredients and the company’s transdermal delivery technology.
It will also give Symrise access to the company’s active ingredients, which in turn means it will be incorporated into is product portfolio and made available to its international customer base.
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No More Bad Hair Days?
US scientists claim to have lifted the lid on a key reason for the so called ‘bad hair day’ – a finding that could lead to improvements in hair care product development.
The study findings, which were recently presented at the American Chemical Society national meeting, highlighted how detailed microscopic analysis of hair fibers shows exactly how hair fibers interact with one another – a factor that affects the smoothness and ultimately the appearance of the hair.
Key to this finding, the researchers claim, is that it may be harbored to help improve the development of shampoos, conditioners and other targeted products that are designed to repair damaged hair.
Hair care is the second biggest personal care product category and is currently valued at $60 billion annually.
However, growth in the hair care market has been limited in recent years, reflecting the maturity of the category.
Where product developers have been able to tap into growth, however, is the creation of niche products that address specific hair care needs, especially damaged hair.
"Given all the new hair treatments out there, there's a growing need to make hair feel more natural, especially for women," says study co-author Eva Max, a doctoral student in chemistry at the University of Bayreuth in Germany.
The study also clues into the trend for hair care products that are backed by science, something that many consumers find reassuring.
"For the first time, we present an experimental setup that allows measuring the subtle forces, both physical and chemical, that arise when single hairs slide past each other or are pressed against each other," Max said.
"The findings will help provide clearer strategies for optimizing hair care products."
The method the researchers developed to analyze the hair fibers relies on a cantilever tip of an atomic force microscope and measuring the fibers interact as they touch one another.
The research found that when these fibers slide past one another it can cause more friction and lead to a roughness that is often associated with out of condition or unhealthy looking hair.
This sort of problem is often addressed with softeners or polymers that provide a neutral charge to correct the repulsion that causes the hair fibers to rub against one another.
But, as the authors of the report point out, finding the correct formula to solve this problem can often prove to be extremely difficult, because of external forces such as humidity, hair quality and the level of moisture in the hair fibers.
The authors claim that the new method of analysis they have developed could help to factor in all of these considerations, leading to the development of more targeted and effective hair care products.
Source: CosmeticDesignEurope, August 18, 2008.
Peptides: the Future of Skincare?
Peptides have become popular for their use as anti-microbials for a range of skin care products as well as being combined as an active ingredient in hair regrowth products.
However, where they have really come to the fore is in anti-aging skin care formulations. Indeed, peptides have become so popular in anti-aging products that they have been tipped as one of the hottest trends for 2008 by industry observers.
This forms part of an even wider trend for anti-aging formulas with highly complex and effective formulations, including efficacy claims that are based on lengthy scientific research.
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